Benefit or harm? A Riga cosmetologist discusses the effects of chemical peels on the skin.

«Despite its frightening name (it contains the word "chemical"), chemical peeling is now the most common cosmetology procedure. The first chemical peels appeared 20 years ago, and they really were "moderately dangerous" and aggressive, but even then they were also quite effective. In the hands of experienced cosmetologists, chemical peels have become a true "weapon". They affected the quality of the skin, improving its condition and addressing existing problems rather than simply "caressing" the skin with pleasantly scented cosmetics — Ludmila Stavro–Freiberga, an experienced Riga cosmetologist and head of the Panacea Premium aesthetic medicine clinic, offers a brief overview of the history of peeling.

«First, let us clarify what peeling is. Peeling is the removal of the upper, or horny, layer of the skin—that is, the layer of dead skin. When performing mechanical skin peeling, cosmetologists often use a natural abrasive, such as ground almond shells. An alternative to mechanical action is chemical peeling. It softens the bonds between skin cells and promotes natural exfoliation without noticeable flaking of the skin.

In what cases is chemical peeling “both painful and dangerous”?

«Yes, it can be dangerous and painful. When affecting the skin by performing what is known as a “deep chemical peel”, one must understand in advance that this is a painful and dangerous procedure that also involves a lengthy rehabilitation period.”

Ludmila notes that a deep chemical peel is the most aggressive of all types of peels, because the basal membrane is damaged down to the papillary layer of the dermis. The active agent used is an aggressive substance that can cause burns—phenol.

“We cause “harm” to our skin, triggering a response, which is why such procedures can be performed only once or twice in our lifetime. Rehabilitation lasts up to six months, and in fact this procedure is comparable to the intervention of a plastic surgeon.”

Which chemical peels are effective but less dangerous?

“If we classify them according to the depth of their action, all chemical peels can be divided into three groups: superficial, medium-depth and the deep peels already mentioned.

 Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, phytic acids, mandelic acid, Jessner’s solution or trichloroacetic acid play an important role in superficial peels. In this case, the active substances penetrate no further than the stratum corneum and cause little damage.

Medium-depth chemical peels act more deeply: 15–35% trichloroacetic acid is used, or trichloroacetic acid combined with 50–70% alpha hydroxy acid, or 35% trichloroacetic acid combined with 20% beta hydroxy acid. Medium-depth chemical peels also act within the epidermis and do not damage the basal membrane.

According to several cosmetologists, the “golden mean” is a retinol peel.

Many cosmetologists recommend retinol peels in particular. I also often recommend this procedure to my patients. A retinol peel belongs to an intermediate group between superficial and medium-depth peels. On the one hand, it is an easily tolerated procedure with a very moderate rehabilitation period; on the other hand, it produces a visually noticeable result. A retinol peel is safe and minimally traumatic. Its effects are easy to control, and it carries a low risk of complications.”

Ludmila emphasizes that the retinol peel procedure is well tolerated, which is precisely why it is so popular among the clients of her clinic.

“A retinol peel rejuvenates and evens out the skin tone, significantly improves firmness, strengthens the blood vessel walls, and stimulates microcirculation processes at the cellular level.

Be prepared for the achieved effect not only to pleasantly surprise you, but also to become increasingly noticeable over the next 5–6 months. However, you must be especially careful before undergoing any cosmetic procedure, particularly a chemical peel, and обязательно obtain a consultation with a cosmetologist,” Ludmila Stavro–Freiberga advises readers.

Information prepared by the communications agency Advanced Learning & Communications. www.alc.lv